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نسخه‌ی کامل: HOW MANY SCREWGATES SHOULD YOU CARRY?
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HOW MANY SCREWGATES SHOULD YOU CARRY?

One question I get asked a lot by new climbers is how many screw gates they should carry, as it’s not uncommon to see some climbers carrying over a dozen screwgates while others carry only one or two. The answer I can give is only a personal one, and in no way implies that those that carry more are wrong.

First off screwgates offer much higher levels of security then a single snap gate karabiner, and are also generally stronger and larger in size; important if they are the focus point for large potential loads (such as on belays) and holding bulky knots and ropes. The screwgates disadvantages are they are heavier and in some situations; like winter or alpine climbing, they can freeze up badly, plus they can also lead you into believing that their security is total, which often isn’t the case.

One mistake people make is assuming that a screwgate is crucial in any high security situation, and that nothing else will do, such as in belay set ups, or belaying itself. This isn’t the case, and as well placed snap gate or two snap gates with opposed gates can offer just as much, or even more security.

When there is a static (non moving) load on a piece, say at each connection to a cordellete, or bolt belay, then it’s fine to use snap gates, as there is virtually no chance of either the gear or the sling/cord escaping from the karabiner. The difference comes when the load is moving around, such as one your main connection point when belaying, abseiling or when hanging on belays. In these situations a screwgate offers less chance of accidental separation. Even then this isn’t guaranteed, as screwgate collars do come undone unless really cranked shut (which can lead to stuck gates if screwed down under load). If total security is needed then the only option is either to use two karabiners with gates opposed or a miallon. Using opposed snap gate karabiners works really well in situations where gates often become frozen, or are difficult to operate with gloves on, and I often use doubled wire gates in these situations.

So how many should you carry?
Weight is always and issue so I try to keep my screwgates down as low as possible, and will usually only carry two very strong HMS screwgtates, adding a smaller D shaped screwate if I’m using a magic style plate (to be used in its auto locking mode). The HMS shape isn’t strong, being much weaker then a D shaped crab, so it’s vital that you buy a forged design that maximizes strength. Another factor is its large size, as this gives plenty of room for Italian hitches and other knots when tying yourself to the belay. With these two karabiners I feel that I can achieve a high level of security, switching to opposed gates when I need further security.

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چند تا کارابین پیچ ؟


سوال متداولي كه بسياري از تازه كاران مي پرسند اين است كه چند عدد كارابين پيچ بايد با خود داشته باشند.


در پاسخ بايد گفت كه جواب قطعي نمي توان به اين سوال داد ، برخي يك جين كارابين پيچ دارند و برخي تنها يك يا دو عدد.

كارابين هاي پيچ، بيشترين ميزان ايمني را نسبت به كارابين هاي ساده دارند همچنين قويتر و بزرگترند. دقت داشته باشيد كه اين ويژگي ها در بالا كشي ها و يا استفاده از گره هاي بزرگ در روي طناب بسيار اهميت دارد. اما عيب اين كارابين ها اين است كه سنگين هستند و در برخي از شرايط مانند صعود هاي زمستاني يخ مي زنند.

ايرادي كه برخي از آدم هاي سخت گير مي گيرند اين است كه اين كارابين ها در شرايط ايمني بالا، كار كردن با آنها سخت است مانند سيستم هاي بالاكشي و بهتر است از كارابين ساده و يا دو كارابين با جهت مخالف استفاده شود.

در پاسخ بايد گفت هنگامي كه شرايط ثابت است و حركتي نداريم اين كار خوب است اما در شرايطي كه حركت داريم و يا به آن آويزان هستيم احتمال حادثه در اين كارابين ها كمتر است (البته چنانچه دهانه ي كارابين را كامل نبنديد تضميني وجود ندارد!!!). البته استفاده از دوكارابين با جهت مخالف هم انتخاب خوبي است براي زماني كه پيچ كارابين يخ بزند و يا آنكه استفاده از كارابين پيچ با دستكش سخت باشد.

با توجه به وزن ،من تلاش مي كنم تا حداقل تعداد كارابين هاي پيچ ممكن را داشته باشم و معمولا دو كارابين بسيار قوي HMS با خود حمل مي كنم به علاوه يك كارابين كوچك D شكل. كارابين هاي HMS در مقايسه با كارابين هاي D زياد قوي نيستند پس بهتر است تا يك كارابين D شكل براي حداكثر نيرو داشته باشيد. از طرف ديگر اندازه ي آنها است كه فضاي زيادي را براي زدن گره هاي بزرگ مي دهد. با اين دو كارابين من احساس مي كنم كه به حداكثر ايمني مي رسم و هنگامي كه به ايمني بيشتري نياز دارم از دو كارابين با جهت مخالف استفاده مي كنم.

منبع :http://araneae.ir/blog/?p=32
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